The Kelimutu volcano in Flores, Indonesia, is world-renowned for its three crater lakes at the summit, which keep changing colour. The ride up from Moni village begins pre-dawn in a truck that takes you close to the crater rim. Hawkers selling hot tea and fried banana are already up and serving in the rugged car park. A short walk by torchlight through the undergrowth in the darkness and the land rises steeply to an abrupt stop. Crawl to the edge and by moonlight you can make out a sheer drop into the deep black lake in the crater below. It is both terrifying and exhilarating to be on the rim of a volcano by night. Edging along to a viewing point for sunrise feels like an achievement of survival in itself. Once the sun is up you can fully appreciate the colourful sulphur lakes with the few who have ventured this far east down Indonesia volcanic rim.